“So. About Thanksgiving.”
I’m on the phone with Harrison, making plans for her trip back to Cali from Boston for the holiday.
“I’ve got your ticket, and I’m preparing to kill the fatted tofu. That’s a variation of a biblical reference,” I add, “Just in case you didn’t catch it. You know: the prodigal son, the killing of the fatted calf on his return . . .”
“You’re so mean,” says Harrison. “First, you don’t even raise me in the Judeo-Christian tradition, so I’ve got huge cultural gaps – which really handicap me in my lit classes, by the way. Then you show me up with attempted witty riffs on said tradition. You’re a bad mother.”
“You’ll thank me later,” I say. “In the meantime, we need to talk turkey. Have you spoken with your father?”
For the last ten years, since Harrison’s father and I separated (eventually divorcing), the three of us have celebrated Thanksgiving and the Christmas holidays together. Because our extended family extends across the U.S. and Asia, my ex, Makoto, and I did these holidays at home, ourselves, from the outset of our marriage. When we split, we each thought it unfair to pull the plug on the practice and the other, so we continued our nuclear family tradition, with only the occasional meltdown.
During Harrison’s high school years, her friends George and Lucy started joining us for our evening Thanksgiving dinner – George after her first meal of the day, and Lucy after her first or second. Dinner conversations were lively, and dessert time livelier still with as many as 15 or 20 crammed in my tiny living room as other kids dropped by after their families’ meals for pumpkin pie and gossip.
This year, however, Makoto was proposing a change. “I’m going to spend Thanksgiving with my girlfriend and her kids,” he said, when I called to discuss the dinner plan. “Harrison can come with me, or she can stay with you. It’s up to you two.”
“Oh,” I said. “Oh.”
Okay. Maybe propose is the wrong word. But of course one had to expect that things would eventually change, and I had, particularly when a new significant other came on the scene. I felt a tad sad, but we had done a good job of it, all in all, and it was time to let things move on.
“You mean, do I know that Dad’s planning on going to his girlfriend’s for Thanksgiving?” asks Harrison.
“Yes, actually,” I say, relieved. Yes, she tells me, they’ve talked – and she seems okay with the altered arrangement. “You know, I’m fine if you’d like to join your dad. I can make other plans.” I briefly revel in the thought of doing no cooking or cleanup whatsoever. Mmmmmm.
“No. Everybody expects Thanksgiving at your house,” says Harrison. “But we have a bigger problem. What about the turkey?”
“What about it?”
“Mom, you know what I mean. I’m really worried!”
“Why? It’s like cooking a big chicken.”
“MOM! Sacrilege!”
To understand Harrison’s consternation, one needs to know two things: First, Harrison LOVES turkey. Her preference for the bird pre-dates any thirst for mother’s milk, if one’s appetite during pregnancy is indeed influenced by one’s offspring in utero. I craved turkey constantly when I carried Harrison, and that gestational summer, Makoto often returned home after work to a roasting hot house and a full autumnal spread.
Second important bit of background: I haven’t actually roasted a turkey since my pregnancy, so Harrison has no memory of me ever cooking one. As far as she is concerned, dad = turkey. Always better with meats – heck, with pretty much all cooking – Makoto took over the turkey roasting the year Harrison was born.
After we separated, when I offered to host Thanksgiving dinner, Makoto asked “What can I bring?” To which I replied: “What about the turkey?” His agreement was swift and emphatic, and for the last ten years we’d feasted on some exceptional birds – some years brined; others herbed; once roasted on a spit outdoors over mesquite. These fowl were quite the bar-setting culinary experiences.
Thus Harrison’s concern. Before we hang up, I promise her I’ll do thorough research on turkey cookery, and we will have a tasty, juicy bird.
Harrison and George talk shortly after we do, apparently, because, within a half hour, George Facebooks me: Harry’s mom! Let’s deep-fry the turkey this year! They come out really juicy! To which I reply on her wall: HELL NO! Do you know how dangerous that is? To illustrate the point, I post links to photos of turkey deep fryers ablaze, sending 20-foot columns of flame shooting skyward.
“You can still have a deep-fried turkey,” says Takeo, Cyn’s boyfriend, a few days later, over dinner and in response to my questions about turkey prep. “Just order one from KFC.”
“He’s young; his tastes are immature,” says Cyn, a cougar and an outstanding cook. “He only eats gold-colored food. Don’t listen to him.”
A week before Thanksgiving, I visit with Joanne in Berkeley and bring her an old Coach handbag for her eBay stockroom, in exchange for turkey tips. In addition to being a rabid Goodwill hunter, she’s also a professional chef. She recommends brining overnight, and then smoking on the grill. She and Nathan regularly prepare 24-pound birds this way.
“Are you kidding?!” I say. “That’s way too much work! Plus, I wouldn’t know how to manage the heat on a grill! And besides, I don’t have a grill big enough! Come to think of it, I don’t have a turkey roasting pan either. Hey, could I pay you to cook a turkey for me and I’ll just come and pick it up?”
“You’re a crazy bitch,” says Joanne. “But I will help you. Let’s go to Goodwill and get you a roasting pan.” We do, and I’m that much closer to getting the turkey situation under control.
“Look,” says neighbor Kate, as we crunch through the leaves on an evening walk, T-Day minus four: “You want a moist, juicy turkey? I’ll make this easy for you. Step 1: Order a fresh turkey. Step 2: Take it out of the refrigerator an hour before cooking. Step 3: Stuff it. Step 4: Put it in the roasting pan, breast side down; cover it, and roast at 350 degrees Farenheit for about 20 minutes per pound. Baste liberally with butter every hour. Step 5: Turn the turkey over for the last hour, baste liberally with butter, and roast uncovered to brown the breast. Step 6: Check for doneness, remove the fowl from the oven, let it sit for 20 minutes, and then carve it. And there you have it: One juicy bird. Works every time. And no drama.”
“Okay!” I say. “Yay! We can DO this thing!”
So I call the grocery store and order a modest (fresh) turkey, and the Wednesday before Thanksgiving, Kate and I go together to pick up our birds.
A crowd has gathered at the meat counter. “We’re here for turkeys,” says Kate.
“The turkeys didn’t make it,” teases the butcher. “All we’ve got are pigeons.”
“Yuck!” I make a face.
“Hey,” says a woman standing next to us, “Don’t knock it ‘til you’ve tried it.”
“Eh?”
The woman nods emphatically. “I used to work in one of the Paly University labs, where we had pigeons – “
- I shoot Kate a raised eyebrow which translates as: Oh my, she’s not going where I think she’s going, is she? Kate signals back with a slight shake of her head: No, she couldn’t possibly.
But the woman does go there. “Those pigeons – the control pigeons of course, the ones injected only with saline – they were some of the most delicious roasted birds I’ve ever tasted.”
The knot of people around the counter goes silent. Even the butcher is speechless.
Kate coughs.
“Well,” I say, “That’s one approach to brining your poultry.”
Back in the car, Kate and I laugh so hard we cry. “And it seemed so cannibalistic – like eating your colleagues,” I say when I can finally speak again.
“More like eating your subordinates,” Kate replies. “Which, come to think of it, happens all the time in the workplace.”
We’re still laughing when we part, bearing our turkeys back to our respective homes.
Day of, Harrison and I are up early and in the kitchen. Pies baked? Check. Cranberry sauce prepped? Check. Our turkey, at 12 pounds, really does resemble a large chicken, but a very large chicken, Harrison concedes. We follow Kate’s instructions and get the turkey in the oven. And then we make the other sides – including my dinner rolls, which, Harrison points out, are as essential a part of our Thanksgiving tradition as the turkey and quite possibly my ace in the hole with the man in my future. (“Aw, thanks sweetie.”) An hour or so before dinner, Lucy arrives, followed shortly by the girls’ friend Zack. As is tradition, all are put to work, and the dinner starts to come together. George shows up just after the rolls come out of the oven, and we sit down to feast.
The turkey turns out just fine. The sides are good, and the kids eat until they can’t breathe, so I know their compliments are genuine. We toast – to Thanksgiving, our annual extended family feast, friendship, Makoto, the rolls and the turkey. “Moms,” says Harrison, her glass raised, “I can’t lie. You really had me worried when you said ‘Basting? What’s basting?’ But the turkey came out great!”
Yes. In the end, it all worked out. There was turkey, even if Makoto was not present. And note: There was no drama. No houses burned, and no pigeons were harmed in the making of this meal.
The Word Wench weblog is a fictional memoir, and any resemblance to any person living or dead (you know who you are!) is purely coincidental. Installments are posted at whim, so please subscribe to RSS feed to read the latest, or join the WW mailing list by sending a SUBSCRIBE message to TheWordWench@gmail.com
(c) All Rights Reserved.